
© J Darley
As the last traces of gold melted into the first morning blues, our hot air balloon rose to meet the dawn. In a large wicker basket we hung beneath a mass of rainbow-striped fabric inflated by a roaring flame. What better way could there be to see Colorado?
“See that mountain with a bump like a pair of feet at one end and a sort of profile at the other? That’s the sleeping Indian,” Ed, our pilot, told us, gesturing to the Rocky Mountains and gently rotating the balloon so we could all get a look. There were eight passengers in the basket, pressed neatly together with just enough room for each of us to have a view of the land spread out beneath us. Our balloon led the way, followed by two other Fair Winds balloons across a large lake and a road where excited school children waved to us from the windows of their yellow school bus.
The balloon flight was a highlight in a week full of astonishing experiences, from exploring beautiful down town Denver to meandering around the remarkable rock formations of the Garden of the Gods. But today my husband James and cousin Ian had something less cerebral in mind. As soon as the balloon touched down in a field of prairie dogs and we’d helped to fold the immense swathes of fabric away into the balloon envelope, Ian drove us to nearby Fort Mason and the Odell Brewing Company.
If you’ve always dismissed American beers as weak and watery, as I have, then you’ve clearly missed the recent beer revolution. Micro breweries have sprung up across the country, with many clustered around cities such as Seattle and Denver, and Odells is one of the best. We arrived in time to work our way through a sampler of their most popular lines, from the dark malty whatever to the crisp wheat beer. It was enough to whet our appetite for the tour past sweet smelling barrels of fermenting hops, through to the gleaming, noisy bottling room.
At the end of the tour, our guide, fresh from a trip to UK breweries courtesy of the company, mentioned a limited addition beer sold in champagne bottles in a few of the nearby liquor stores, and we set off on a mission to find and buy one. That evening at my cousin’s house in Parker we popped the cork and my husband poured us each a frothing glass of the legendary beer. I took my first sip and grimaced. It tasted of fizzy marmite. The boys, however, were gleefully knocking theirs back, and I realised, like marmite, you either love it or hate it.
Likewise, Colorado is a state of extremes, from the flat prairies to the reaching mountains, sophisticated cities to rawest nature, from the heat of the sun to the chill of snowfall. In one day we experienced every various of the weather, setting off with air conditioning turned up high as we drove to the Rocky Mountain’s national park.
Colorado is one of North America’s highest states, and Parker is set 6,000 feet above sea level, which is one of the reasons why you have to be wary of the sun here. Before long, we reached Este National Park, passing the iconic hotel where the Steven King film the Shining was filmed.
As we continued, buildings became sparser, and it was clear that with one heavy snowfall these homes would be isolated. As we wound our way up the narrow mountain roads, rain, then sleet, began to fall, making our route more treacherous.
By the time we stopped for lunch, snow was falling and I was glad to borrow an oversized fleece from my cousin. In Colorado, residents know to travel with clothing for all eventualities. Lightning flickered on the horizon and Pikas, furry critters like sprightly guinea pigs, leapt about the slopes calling to one another in anxious shrieks.
Our aim was to catch sight of the majestic elks that roamed these mountains, but the Pikas and a few hopefully begging chipmunks were the only beasties in sight. Then at the visitors centre standing at an altitude of 11,000 feet, I noticed a gaggle of tourists looking out of one of the windows at a herd of distant beige and brown blobs, which they assured me were elk. Satisfied with that glimpse, we headed back to the car and drove down to the town beyond the national park.
And it was here that we saw the elk in their full glory. Congregated on a patch of grass, undeterred by the camera-wielding humans gathered around them, a group of glossy, beautiful elk feasted on the grass while the splendidly horned stag sat in their midst, carefully watching over his harem. As we dove on we passed a stream where a single young male elk stood in the rushing waters and nibbled from the leaves of an overhanging tree, no doubt the reason for the older stag’s wariness.
“Well, who knew they were so intelligent,” my cousin exclaimed as he turned onto the freeway.
“What do you mean?” I asked.
He laughed, “Hunting season just began. Those elk are, quite literally, fair game. Just about the only place they can’t be shot is within the town.”
For me this summed up the appeal of Colorado, where wilderness and civilisation lie side by side, often with only a stretch of tarmac to separate them, and sometimes not even that.